20 Dec 2011 - One Last Look

Home again, home again, jiggety jig.  Sleep is good.  Sleeping my my own bed, complete with memory foam mattress and soft, fluffy pillows is bliss.  Our village is a quiet place and I was a little worried that I would miss the racket of Bangkok, but can report that I slept like a stone, and just might go back to bed in a little while to do some more stone imitating.

It's cold here.  I'm cold.  Oh man, am I cold.  Three months at 28° C is inadequate preparation for 2° C plus wind and rain.

During the drive home I was very impressed by how excellently all the drivers stayed in their own lanes and how fast we were able to go.  Not one single person honked, and many people used their indicators before changing lanes.  I'm pretty sure people used their mirrors before maneuvering as well.  It was amazing.

I've pretty much got everything put away now, and have gone through the mail (my blood pressure went up and down like a roller coaster - it seems like everyone waited until I was gone to send some really annoying and unnecessary letters).  I need to go to the grocery store, the bank, and the post office.  I have no choice but to dive back into my life, full speed ahead.  We have a business plan to re-write, and a timeline to follow.  After some anxious searching I managed to locate my car keys (more evidence I am back to my normal routine), and the next step is to get my insurance and road tax sorted out so I can get on with it.

It's funny how it seems as if I haven't really gone away at all!  Putting one's life on hold for 3 months seems like a casual thing now, but while I was in the middle of it all I went through some pretty intense emotional stresses.  I can tell you for sure it's been a hell of a ride, and I am glad I took the time to write this blog, if only to remind me of what's gone down since the end of Sept.

If there is anyone out there that is interested in doing a course of study in Thai Massage at Wat Po in Thailand and has questions, I can be contacted at boston.mmt.ltd@gmail.com.  If I can help at all I will.  If you are interested in receiving a Thai or Sports Massage and you are either willing to travel to me or live within a reasonable distance, drop me a line and we can discuss it.

This is my last entry in this blog, and the reason for that is my life in England is pretty darn boring and no one in their right mind would continue to read it!  So this is me, saying thanks for reading this here little ol' blog and for your emails of encouragement and support.  You've helped me pull something off that I wasn't sure I could actually do, and that counts.

Peace out!

Thai Professional Massage - 200 Hr ***FINISHED***

Dec 17, 2011...took the final exam and passed.  My scores were pretty good, considering my level of exhaustion.  After the exam we had lunch - I chose my favorite, which is stirfried kale with mushrooms and chillies, with a little rice.  After lunch we got our certificates and had pictures...

From left to right:  Kittiphat Yokaeo, Yimlack Visetsuwan, Martino, Serat Tan, Malee Saisamboon, me, Lynn Noimany, Olja Peternek, Somphong Visetsuwan.

Kittiphat, Yimlack and Somphong are our beloved teachers, Serat Tan is the managing director of the Chetawan Health School and Spa.  Missing from this picture is Teacher Malinee, who couldn't be here due to family obligations :-(

I took some pictures of the school at Salaya...

This was our first classroom and is also the room everyone comes to in the mornings for prayer.

The wading path, as seen from the hallway upstairs in front of our classroom.  There are different types of stones in the path, and the point is to walk around in the water and let the different surfaces massage your feet.  Fantastic!

The pool!  To the right are the changing rooms, to the left is the bar and exercise area.  At the top of the pool is the hotel for the spa customers.

This is the courtyard which separates the spa from the school.  This shot was taken from the school side, so beyond the courtyard is the entrance to the spa.  Thai decoration often includes symmetric patterns and is both soothing to the eye and very beautiful.

Lynn, Jazz and Me.  Jazz works in the office at Salaya.  She is 28, stands maybe 4'5" tall, and weighs 20-25 kg.  She is the cutest admin person in the entire world, without a doubt.

Once we'd photographed ourselves silly, it was time to jump in the pool!  The water was too cold for me, so after a few minutes I climbed out and lay beside the pool to bake dry in the sun.  We have spent many happy hours swimming in that pool, wading in the water path and sitting at the (nonalcoholic) pool bar, drinking coffee and talking.  I missed Lisa a lot today, since she was a critical component of all those activities.

We didn't really bond with the school at Wat Po in Bangkok.  While Bangkok has its attractions and advantages (monks, cheaper rooms than Salaya, a million restaurants etc) Salaya is our spiritual home and we were very happy to return to celebrate the completion of this very arduous course!

The Level II course is not for the fainthearted.  It's a lot of work, and if you don't know at least the basics of anatomy you are pretty much out of your depth.  You must have discipline as well - I know Thailand is a place a lot of people (mostly dickheads) think is a cheap place to come party and you can sure do a lot of that in Bangkok, but you can't study and party at the same time in the same space.  Your head has to be right, and you have to spend evenings studying and practicing.

Knowing the rudiments of Thai, while not strictly necessary, would have eased my passage through life considerably.  I suffered a lot of frustration due to being unable to communicate properly.  I also made some mistakes with people and saw others make mistakes due to cultural ignorance, and that is something I will never do again.  Research the people and their ways before leaving your country! 

Western people tend to think that if someone doesn't speak their language so good it means that person, or group of people, are stupid.  The Thai people are easy-going (to a point), and live simple lives, and this might contribute to the Western opinion of stupidity.  Nothing could be farther from the truth.  Thai people, collectively and individually, are switched on and are paying much more attention than you think they are, and definitely more attention than YOU are.  They live simple lives by choice, not because of circumstance.  The Thai society has been around much longer than the Western one, and everything you think you've done, they did a thousand years ago.  Underestimate these people at your peril.

Not only is every move a farang makes in this country is watched, but judged as well.  I don't think this is exclusive to Thailand, I am sure it's the case throughout Asia.  The standards of behavior are much, much higher, and because so many people come over here to drink and act like assholes all foreigners are tarred with essentially the same brush. Thai people are naturally welcoming and friendly, but I think this has been somewhat abused by poor guests.  It therefore takes time to earn the trust of the people that live here.  I walked the same route to school for five weeks.  The first few days I clocked people along the way, mostly food and drinks vendors, who were just beginning their day.  They clocked me as well.  After a week or so, they started nodding to me in the morning, and I would nod back and smile.  After two weeks they were smiling and calling out greetings.  Somehow they all figured out where I went each day and some of them would smile and say "Wat Po".  For me, it made a good start to the day.  I never knew anybody's names, and they never knew mine, but it didn't seem to matter.  We reached across the language and culture barriers and connected.

One of my morning friends.  He lives in this spot - the umbrellas are the walls of his house at night. 

The whole "Land of Smiles" thing?  Thai people smile because they are tough, and proud.  The flooding in Thailand cost some people dearly - all they had left at the end of it was their smiles, and they used them!  Even in the most adverse conditions, Thai people will find a way to smile - but if they get to know and trust you a little and actually open up and talk you'll find out sometimes behind that smile is a lot of pain.  Some of the people I have met here have tolerated situations for months or even years, that I wouldn't for a day.

Have I changed?  Indeed I have.  Have I learned some new things about me?  Yes - some bad stuff, but more good stuff than bad.  I have been introduced to "Thailand Time", which isn't so dissimilar to "Indian Time" and "Cebu Time".  I have lost weight.  My taste in clothes is still pretty naff.  I have found Buddha, and look forward to walking his path a bit further.  I have calmed down some.

Would I do this again?  Yes - but not without bringing my hubby with me.  I spent an awful lot of time missing him and that distracted me from my mission a little.  It was hard to stay the course; much harder to be separated from him than I thought it would be.  Eighty-two days away from home is a very long time.

I am coming back to Thailand, tentatively scheduled for January, 2013.  There are four more weeks of courses I would like to take, I'd like Pete to take the Level 1 course, and Lisa wants to be there to take the Level 2 course.  When we finish we'll buzz off to Cebu to hang with my family, and then we'll see what happens after that.  The Thai Massage Level 3 course is still being discussed, and as far as I know will be happening in approximately two years or so.  I'm going to need these two years to get good at the Level 2 skills!

I've pretty much finished packing, and I have to check out at 12:00.  I can store my suitcase and box in the hotel office, and will walk up to Malee and Olja's hotel to say good-bye.  My flight to Mumbai leaves at 8:55 pm, and I should be home by 7:30 am, Monday morning.

Tuesday, 13 Dec 2011

Day 2 of practicing on real live people, and I think it's all starting to gel.  I'm not so nervous and I'm starting to enjoy myself a little more.  I'm still studying my books every night and spending a lot of time visualising - it helps me to memorise the extra techniques and treatment points for each type of symptom.

Today I treated a lady that has chronic knee problems and also strained her shoulder lifting something too heavy.  I surprised myself completely by knowing exactly what to do and when to do it, and at the end of the treatment she felt much better.  Result! 

My thumbs hurt, and so does my knee, and I'm not the only one that's aching - Lynn, Malee and Olja all have assorted aches and pains as well.  It makes me feel a little better knowing that even though I'm the oldest of us girls I'm not the only one suffering :-)

This morning I met the monk.  No, I still don't know his name.  Last night I went down Khao San Road to the Kodak shop to get a picture of me printed.  I don't do that for just anybody you know, but he had asked for one in exchange for the photo I took of him yesterday.  I gave him my photo this morning and he invited me back to his wat for coffee, which he made for me himself.  He lives at Wat Mahathat on Thanon Maha Rat, which is next to the Silpakorn University.  We sat in the courtyard of his soi and talked while I drank my coffee and he ate his breakfast. 

I told him about Wat Pho and studying massage.  He asked about my family and I showed him a picture of my husband Pete, and told him about Krystal.  He was sad that I only had one child, and said that he wished I had two boys and two girls.

Other monks happened past, going about their normal business, but didn't seem too surprised to see me. I think he might have said something about me to some of them.  I recognised a couple of them from the morning alms.  I don't think it's too common for farang girls to hang out with 75 year old monks, drinking coffee, but it was fine with us, and I enjoyed my time with him very much.  He has a cracking sense of humor, a gentle manner and way of speech, and the sense of peace I get from spending time with him lasts all day.  All the weird, bad crap that constantly floats around in my head suddenly seems...unnecessary, and easy to dismiss.  I missed Ruesi Dutton this morning, but it was worth it.

He wants to meet me again tomorrow morning, to give me a letter with his address on so I can write to him.

I've been telling Teacher Somphong about him as Somphong was a monk for a year, when he was young.  He just smiles and says I am lucky.  An unexpected benefit of visiting Thailand has been the relationships I have formed, several of which I believe will last my lifetime.  I am very lucky!

A Monk, Revealed.

Thai Traditional Medicine - Theory

Today we had day one of two in the theory behind Thai Traditional Medicine. 

There are four elements of life, and those are Earth, Water, Wind and Fire.  Each element controls certain functions in the body, and all work together in harmony.  Illness occurs when an element becomes unbalanced.

Each element responds to different herbs, which are categorised by their taste.  It's the learning of the herbs, their taste, and what they are used to treat that's the tricky part.  We won't get too far into this, we only have two days training.  It takes 3-5 years education to learn Thai Traditional Medicine, and I think I've left it a bit late in my career to consider.  It is a fascinating topic of study, though.

The really interesting part of the day happened in the afternoon.  There are two oils that we have all learned to use - yellow oil and green oil.  Yellow oil is good for muscle pain.  It is made of cassumanar root, which is a relative of ginger.  I like using it, it works a lot better than icy hot et al, and it smells a lot better.  Green oil is used for insect bites and stings, and is also nice to dab just under one's nose - it's a fantastic decongestant.  Green oil is also used to massage around the abdomen to relieve a bad stomach, and a drop can be drank in warm water to help with bad stomach as well.

We learned how to make yellow oil, white oil and green oil, then learned how to make yellow, white and green Tiger Balm.  I can't believe how easy it is to do, for something so effective, and I really can't wait to get home and start experimenting with this!

Right, I need to sleep fast, get up early and do some serious revising.  I have eleven days left to become amazing at Thai massage.

Tiger Balm, first production run by the November 2011 Professional Thai Massage Level II Crew:

Monks and Drunks

It's funny, the connections one forms in life.  A chance meeting causes ripple effects through the cosmos, and thus I am trapped.

I did mention a while ago about having a favorite monk.  Well, he went AWOL from our regular walking route about 10 days ago, and I've been worried about him and very depressed ever since.  I've searched for him, scanning the faces of every saffron-robed figure I see (he doesn't wear the bright orange kind), with no joy.  The longer this goes on, the grumpier I get.  Do you have any idea how many monks there are in Bangkok?  Lots!  Wat Po is right next to a college for monks! 

He's just 5 feet tall, and weighs perhaps 70-75 pounds.  (That's 5.5 st to you Brits).  A strong wind would blow him away.  He's 70, or maybe a little older.  He has a cataract in his left eye.  He's adorable. 

Today, I saw him again, and it was as if someone switched a light on in my brain.  We were on a busy street, at the edge of a market really, but he was the only person I could see.  He blessed me, then we talked.  He told me that he had been worried about me because he hadn't seen me, and I told him that I had been worried about him too.  He was very happy to see me, as I was to see him.  He asked me for my address, because he wants to write to me when I go home.  I gave it to him.  I'm not allowed to touch a monk, being a girl, but I'd hug him (carefully) if I only could.  I don't know what it is, but I feel like he's related to me somehow, that we are family.

I know that all monks are the same, and all should be treated the same way.  When you give a gift to a monk, you are giving to all of them, and it's not wrong to gift the first monk you see.  To me, though, there is something special about this particular monk.

The oddest part about all this is what happened earlier this morning.  I left the hotel early, thinking I would stop for some food along the way and skip Ruesi Dutton, due to having a serious nose drippage problem.  Just as I turned down Phra Athit Road I was stopped by a couple of boys in their early 20's, who asked me for directions to Khao San Road.  I could tell the tall one was pretty drunk and the short one (the one that asked for help) was slightly more sober but was not processing the directions I was giving him, so I turned around and marched them to Khao San Road myself, deftly avoiding the tall one who was trying to cop a feel as we walked along.  I even helped them across Chakkraphong Road, rather than pointing them in the right direction and leaving them to cross that bad boy themselves.  When I got them to KSR I told them to go get some sleep and to please stop wandering around Bangkok off their faces drunk, then I ditched them.  They were younger than my daughter, and by far stupider.

I can't shake the strong feeling that had I not shown this random act of kindness to this pair of twats I would not have seen the monk.  I'm not just talking about being at the right place and time to put eyes on him, even though that is certainly a factor.  I just don't think I would have seen him, no matter where he was in relation to me.  I know this sounds a little surreal, and I'm not usually susceptible to such notions, but it feels...right.

All I can tell you for sure is that my blues are gone, and even though I have a nasty, dribbly cold I'm content.

Fourteen Class Days Left...

We have about one hour of lecture in massage left, then will spend six of the next eight class days practicing what we've learned.  The other two days we have lecture in Thai herbs, and will be learning to make Tiger Balm (oh yeah man!) from scratch.  We are very excited about the Tiger Balm.  If you've ever used it, you'll understand why.  In the UK it's expensive!

Our class is special, because Olja is the first Serbian and Malee is the first Thai to take the Professional Level II course.  We are happy for them, and really proud of them both. 

Olja has struggled a lot with the language barrier - she's had to interpret what our Thai teachers are trying to say in their limited English, then roll it around in her head until she understands what they mean.  She knows Anatomy and Physiology, but not the English names of muscles etc.  She would have never made it this far had she not been incredibly clever and gifted with an honest to god eidetic memory.  We help her when she asks, and give her plenty of hugs and encouragement.

Malee is also extremely clever, but hasn't the educational background in biology or any of the human sciences.  She's basically had to start from scratch - we were lucky to find a Thai anatomy book that also has the English names of things in the diagrams.  She's wading through it but I know it's not easy for her.  What we really need is the Encyclopedia of Allied Health for Nursing in Thai and English (oh, like that's on Amazon, fer sure!).

Both Olja and Malee's English has improved by hanging around with us, way more than our Thai and Slav has!

This coming Monday Wat Po's first Professional Thai Massage Level I course in Thai, for Thai people begins.  Up till now the only courses available for Thai people were the short courses.  The long, expensive ones were reserved for the Western students.  My understanding is that Wat Po will develop a Level II course in Thai in 2-3 years' time, depending on the demand.  I guess we wait and see, kind of like what we're doing with Professional Thai Massage Level III.

The Level II course has taught me a lot.  We are now in the realms of being able to really damage people - either through incompetence or by being physically unable to do the work.  Understanding this has made me so careful.  While my commitment to keeping myself physically fit has never been in doubt, I am even more aware of the need to remain strong and healthy by looking after myself: doing strength training, cardio work, practicing Ruesi Dutton, getting enough sleep and eating properly.  You can't do this job if you are a slacker in your personal maintenance.

I am listening to Teacher Sampong and taking lots of notes, as well as asking many questions and trying my very best to be perfect when practicing.  We all get a chance to massage Teacher, so we get instant feedback when we are incorrect.  He knows how important it is for me to be accurate, so he picks me up on every little thing and this is helping me be a better MT.  To all my existing/future clients:  I'm doing this for YOU!  I'm definitely looking forward to our six days of practice because I need to know my skills are embedded in my little pea brain.

After practicing, the next five days will be spent massaging real live customers with real live bad backs, knees, shoulders and necks.  Yikes!  Well, this is what I came here for...

Thai Professional Massage, Level II, Day 11

We are learning fast and hard, and it's all good stuff.  This is getting easier by the day, and for that I am extremely grateful.  After all the extra prayers to the Buddha and the Master to please help me remember all that I have learned, I think they might have decided to help me out.

Thai massage isn't a magic bullet; it doesn't work for everyone or for every kind of muscular problem.  Learning what will work and what won't is half the battle.  Understanding what you are doing is the other half.  The first course we took, the Professional Level I course, frustrated most of us because it was so rigid; we had to sit a certain way, do the massage a certain way, etc.  Level II is very different as there is scope for using different techniques to treat a given condition, and what I am finding the case to be is that each new technique I learn is just another tool in the toolbox to be used whenever I see fit.  I am excited to be bringing this modality back to my clients in the UK!

The Thai yoga RueSi DatTon is amazing, and I am steadily improving my skill level.  I am trying to perfect my RueSi DatTon postures while I have the guidance, because I will be using it when I get home.  I believe that doing the yoga every morning is keeping me from completely seizing up, since I'm not working out in a gym or doing the hours of cardio that I do back home.  My physical work load has changed dramatically, but I am still tired at the end of each day.  My superhuman strength is fading, but slower than it would be if I wasn't getting any exercise.  I can last twenty four more days but will definitely have to spend some quality time with some free weights when I get home!  Gyms in Bangkok are expensive, and right now I really need to be focusing on what I am here to do anyway. 

There is talk of a Level III course, but Wat Po is waiting to get a few more Level II candidates through the doors first.  I will of course take Level III when it becomes available.  I have also started making inquiries into learning the rest of the RueSi DatTon postures so it looks like at least one more trip to Thailand is in my future at any rate.

I have taken to wearing ear plugs in the evening - my room faces the street and the noise is incredible.  The tuktuks, buses, shouting people, live bands whose members shouldn't ever give up their day jobs...it's all here and it's all happening on the other side of my paper thin guesthouse room walls.  I've not slept well since I got to Thailand, but really have been struggling with it since coming to Bangkok.  Earplugs are bliss!  What a fantastic invention!  I took one out a moment ago, to test the difference, and was nearly deafened by the din.

My wardrobe is continuing to malfunction at an alarming rate.  I have had to throw a bra and a pair of 3/4 trousers away just today.  I gave away my largest clothes to a friend because there's simply no point in me owning or wearing them.  A pair of my shorts didn't return from the laundry service.  Replacing clothing isn't really in my budget, so I am trying to cling to what I have.  We are planning a little shopping trip this Sunday so maybe I will find another pair of shorts or trousers for super cheap.  The clothes you can buy in the markets here are inexpensive, but they aren't worth keeping for very long as the fabrics used are of a pretty low quality and have a short lifespan.  Good quality clothing costs the same here as it does in the UK.

I'm finished with the rabies vaccinations, the last, deepest dog bite is almost healed up, I'm not getting bitten by every insect in the district, I've found some really good, cheap places to eat and even have a favorite monk.  Thailand has entered the cool, dry season so it's actually quite pleasant out.  The temp is still up in the mid- to hi-20's but it's not so humid.  Our morning walk to school is fast becoming the best part of the day.   Things are looking up!

Thailand: A Smoker's Haven

Six years ago I decided to quit smoking.  I did this because I couldn't control the urge to smoke, even though I despised it.  Every cigarette I lit pissed me off more than the previous one, until I finally had enough.  Such is life, and I know other people that have quit, with varying degrees of success.  It's a deeply personal thing, and the decision to smoke or not has to be left up to the individual.

England has made it a policy to disallow smoking inside of public places.  This happened after I quit, so I was never inconvenienced by having to go outside to smoke.  When I quit smoking I also quit going out, because I couldn't bear breathing the secondhand smoke of others.  My husband joined me in the nonsmoking decision, and felt the same way about going out.  This carried on until the nonsmoking law was passed.  Blah blah blah.

Enough of that. 

Here in Thailand smoking is allowed everywhere, and cigarettes are cheap.  I mean seriously cheap.  All the displaced smokers in the UK have ended up here, I swear.  Cigs in the UK are something like £7 a pack.  Here in Bangkok I think the cost is approximately the equivalent of £2.50 or so.  Not only can you smoke everywhere but you can befoul the atmosphere all around you whilst staying on your travel budget!  WIN!

I have just spent the last two hours in a restaurant/bar called Mulligan's on Khaosan Road.  I did this because I treated someone to dinner, as a way of showing appreciation for a great big favor he did for me.  My throat is raw, I can't get enough clean air in my lungs, and even though I took a shower I can still smell and taste cigarette smoke, and it is rank.  Gah.  I am so over cigarettes, and Mulligan's by association.

I know I'm being precious about the whole smoking thing, and smokers find ex-smokers' tirades tiresome, so all I will say is this:  it's poison, and you will die from it.  Keep smoking, there's seven billion people on this planet.

Tuktuk Drivers Need to Love Too

Sigh.  If English is your first language and you don't speak Thai, don't get into a tuktuk unless you fancy paying a little extra for your journey, or visiting shops you never heard of and don't particularly want to go to.  This is all I can say about tuktuks in Bangkok.  No, we didn't actually get taken to the "Thai government sponsored clothing sale" at James Fashions.  We wanted to go to Pratunum Market, and when we tried to talk the driver into avoiding the HUGE SALE at James Fashions (he showed us a well-worn brochure for this fine establishment, with pictures of men's suits adorning every page) he went into some sort of meltdown and had to pull over to look at his map.  I don't think he even knew where Pratunum Market was.  When he stopped we got out, and while we fumbled for some coins to give him he drove off to find another pigeon.  Sigh again.

Petchaburi Road, as seen from the Pratunum pedestrian crossing:

We hailed a taxi and another tuktuk driver pulled up, and offered to take us to the market for 100 baht.  I almost fell over at this point, but politely told him no, that was twice what a taxi would charge.  When the taxi that was pulling up for us stopped, we said good bye to Tuktuk Man and buzzed off to Pratunum Market in air conditioned comfort, for 60 baht - 49 baht plus 11 baht tip.  I assure you I was well-behaved and nice at all times.  Both Carla and I have ended our careers as tuktuk passengers, forever, I think.

A tuktuk as from above, complete with farang shearer:

After the market we found a taxi and asked him to take us back to Phra Sumen Road, where there was a shop I wanted to return to in order to buy some pillows for my treatment rooms.  I even showed him the location on the map (damn those tourists and their laminated street maps).  He pulled out into the traffic, and when I asked him to turn the meter on he said it was broken.  I asked him to stop the car, and as if by magic his meter started working when he pushed a few buttons.  Unrepentant, he then tried to pad the route a little, at which time we did force him to stop and we paid the 51 baht on the meter.  Had he just gone the correct way; the shortest, fastest way, he would have received a nice tip as well as the fare.  Sheer bloodymindedness ruled, I wasn't going to sit in that taxi for another second.  I'm certain that the extra charge wouldn't have broken the bank, but it has become the principle of the thing.

I am starting to learn my way around Bangkok a little, and can plainly see how easy it would be to fleece people from forn parts.  Everything looks the same same but different, as they like to say in Thailand.  It's not until you start clocking the different wats and other landmarks that you can actually tell when you're getting the extra special treatment.   I wish I could say that I'm exaggerating, but I'm not, and I know Bangkok isn't the only place in the world that it goes on - it happens in New York, Alicante, Medford, Oregon, and London as well.  It is extremely important to tell you that not all taxi drivers are like this!  I have had many taxi rides in Thailand that were strictly from A to B, with no faffing. 

My friend, the Groovy Map of Bangkok http://www.groovymap.com/main.php, has empowered me.  I know that if I stick to the map eventually I will work out where I need to be.  I might have to walk around some, but I'll bloody well get there in the end, random dog bites and all.

Maybe I'm just enduring a low transportation moment.

Professional Thai Massage Level 2 - Day 5

After a few days review, we are now beginning to learn new techniques.  Because the class size is so small we are getting plenty of teacher time, which is a very good thing!  The teachers know I want to perfect my skills and correct me on every error, no matter how small.  Fortunately I'm in the learning zone and am able to pick up the most basic tasks after being told seven or eight times and getting smacked after the 8th time.

The trick is to know the basic steps of the relaxing massage.  This you learn in the first course.  As well as knowing the steps to follow, you must know the sen lines associated with each step, and must understand how deep to press on them.  This is the hardest skill to master.

The medical techniques we are now learning all branch off from the relaxing massage.  The steps of the relaxing massage start at the legs, then go to the back, upper back, arms, neck and head.  If we are treating a migraine headache we will do a portion of the steps for upper back, neck and head (roughly speaking - it's more complicated then that but to explain it would be a nightmare), after which there are special steps that must be completed, followed by the treatment points.  At the end the client being treated can opt for the application of a herbal compress (this smells and feels fantastic), balm or oil.  I know how to make the herbal compresses and will be including this in my practice back home, and will also be bringing home plenty of the balm and oils.

To Jenny, Miki, Arianna, Giles, Lisa, Villi, Emmy, A and Agnes - we miss you and wish you were with us!

Back in Bangkok

After a certain amount of faffing around with taxis and one tuktuk I am settled into a very good guest house on Phra Arthit Road...  http://bestbedhouse.com/

BB House is a 40 minute walk from Wat Po, my new school.  The boss decided not to have the course in Chiang Mai so we have all assembled in Bangkok, and have just completed Day Two.  The school in Bangkok isn't as fancy as Salaya, but I think I prefer it.  Salaya is like a resort, but is isolated from everything.  Here in Bangkok we can choose what we want to eat and where we want to eat it, rather than selecting items off of the same menu for lunch and dinner in the school canteen.  There are options for getting around the city, rather than paying a wedge for a taxi ride that is grudgingly agreed to by the driver or waiting hopefully for any bus that will stop for us.  There's a lot more to do, period.

Phra Arthit Road runs parallel to the river, and the road is dry.  There are some places next to the river that still have some water, but it's not bad.  We don't have to get wet when walking around.  From what I understand the northern part of Bangkok is still flooded, and I know Salaya (west of BKK) is definitely under water.  Don Muang Airport, which services the domestic flights, is wet but Suvarnabhumi Airport is completely dry.  There is water for sale in the shops, and there is food on the shelves.  It was recently reported to me that the most frightening shortage in this part of town is that of Singha Beer, in the small bottles.


The median age of the tourists has risen remarkably - there are a lot less of the young/drunk/stupid kind hanging about, which makes the older foreigners more obvious.  The clubs are pretty quiet from what I've seen, and there are definitely fewer folk howling at the moon late late at night.  I can only assume that parents are keeping their gap-year spawn locked up until they are sure it's safe, and I applaude this decision while nodding and smiling from ear to ear. 

Manila Airport :-(

The wi-fi doesn't work here.  You can connect to the local network, but no chance of doing the www thing.  I searched around for someone (anyone) that actually works for the airport that might be able to contact the IT department but no dice.  The people working for the airlines can't help, though one of them did make a call on my behalf.  I waited for some sort of acknowledgement for the entire length of my layover - seven hours - but no dice there either. 

I had a scan through the available networks and found one for some place called the Tinder Box.  When I tried to connect I got a message saying I could buy time from the reception desk.  Oooookay...

While taking one of my many, many strolls back and forth across the terminal I noted a guy wearing a uniform with Tinder Box embroidered on it.  I cornered him and after some careful questioning understood the Tinder Box to be the company that operates the smoking room next to Gate 1, and that cards for the wireless can be purchased at the counter - P95 per hour.  Hell yes, I've got P100!  I made my way to this room; actually went inside without a mask or any other protection; only to be told that they have sold out of the magic cards.  Now I smell like a cigarette butt and I still ain't got no internet.  Great.

I've just used up the last of my phone credit calling my classmate Lynn; urgently asking her to call people and tell them things; and there's no place to buy any more.  I am so being tested to the limit of my patience here.

There is a bank of three computers in front of the Citibank office, which is shut today because it's the weekend.  These computers are online and are free to use.  One can't veg out on one forever; there's always a queue to use them.  However, I was able to check my email and send emails to concerned individuals that were sitting safely at home, wondering if I was dead or alive.  I definitely could not log onto Facebook, as the security protocol wanted me to type random words to prove I was really trying to log on as my own self but from an unexpected location.  I couldn't see the random words because the three computers in front of the Citibank office are running Ubuntu and gee whiz, the script for the random words wouldn't run!  Imagine that. 

I visited the Comfort Room (heh) after emailing and lo, there is a machine next to the CR that SELLS PREPAID CREDIT FOR MY SIM CARD!!!  This machine takes pesos or US dollars, and a P300 card costs $8, which is the exact amount of US money I happen to have on me!!!  Oh, the excitement.  I put in my three one-dollar bills, then offered up the five.  The machine spat it out three times before I gave up and read the directions on the front of the machine, which advised me that the machine only eats one dollar bills.  There was no reject button to push and reclaim my dollars, either.  I had a mental Cartman moment, where I stood there and silently said "fuck fuck fuck fuck fuckitty fuck fuck", then started looking around for inspiration.  Just then, an American guy sauntered down the aisle past me (I could tell he was American by his distinctive sauntering style) and he kindly stopped when I called out to him.  After some pocket delving he was able to change my five into 5 ones.  OOO RAH!

Moments later, with my phone refueled, I communicated with the outside world.  It was good.

You see, once you go through security and get into the terminal gate area, there's no going back.  Outside this heavily fortified area are shops, restaurants and other interesting things.  Hell, there might even be a working wi-fi network.  However, once you go through security, pay your port usage fee, do the immigration thing and go through one more round of security you are theirs until you can claw your way onto an outgoing plane.  Of course, you want to get through security and get immigration sorted as soon as you can because discovering there is a problem at immigration three minutes before you hear the final boarding call for your flight isn't the way to do things, but it's not until you get past the last security checkpoint that you realise that you've been thrust into purgatory with no hope of redemption.

Someone told me that Manila International Airport is like the 7th most hated airport in the world.  I can't imagine why that might be, for the life of me :-P

Canned Goods in Carry-On Luggage...

...is a no-no in Philippine airports.  I have 6 tins of tuna in veggie oil, just in case there isn't any in Bangkok.  I know for certain there isn't any in Salaya.

The security guard at Mactan-Cebu International Airport said I can't have them in my carry-on.  After I explained where I was going and why I actually had tuna on my person he marched over to one of the nearby shops and returned with a small box.  He produced a roll of packaging tape from a stash on top of one of the x-ray machines.  I packed the box and he taped it shut, even going so far as to make a tape handle for me to carry it later, then escorted me to the first class check-in desk for Philippine Airlines and got them to check the box in for me.  How sweet was all that???

In return for all this work I answered his many questions about why I was in Cebu to begin with, what I did while I was in Bogo, were my parents in good health and happy that I'd come for a visit,  why I was going to Thailand, and so on.  He wasn't asking because of my suspicious, terrorist-like behaviour, but because he's Filipino and couldn't help himself.  Filipinos are dead curious about other people and like asking lots of questions.  They are so satisfied by getting good answers and really like getting to the bottom of things.  I love this about them, and I understand it, because I'm the same way.

12 November, 2011 - Final Thoughts

I have spent my time on Cebu well, I think.  I met many family members for the first time, laughed a lot, cried a lot, and loved a lot.  I have such a cool family!  I cut banana leaves, ate papayas straight from the trees in my mother’s garden, dodged sea snakes, didn’t catch any little crabs at the beach (thanks Mary Ann), and did not eat too much even though every Filipino I’ve met here is a FEEDER.  

A couple of Mom's papaya trees:

She cultivated the papaya trees by throwing a handful of seeds around the property and ignoring them until they started bearing fruit.

Cebu is loud, dirty and full of life.  My mother says the Philippines GDP consists of dogs, children, and bread.  She might be right, as it goes.  There are a lot of dogs, kids and bakeries here, and the dogs and kids are especially noisy.

Driving in the Philippines is a health and safety nightmare.  There are a number of ways to get around; one of the more common ways is by tricycle.  The tricycle consists of a small motorcycle – usually around 150 cc four stroke, with a covered sidecar.  I witnessed a fully laden tricycle consisting of the driver, two passengers (mom and dad) sitting side-saddle behind him, 5-6 children in the sidecar, with a 3 foot mound of goods and chattels stacked on the roof of the sidecar.  (The tricycle was smoking a little, but still moving at a decent clip.)  Everyone of course was wearing flip-flops, and for headwear safety the mother had a towel around her face to keep her from breathing exhaust fumes.  I think they may have been moving house.

I saw a tricycle hauling two complete suites of wooden lounge furniture (no passengers), and as we overtook it decided I liked the set with the green fabric the best.  Later I bemusedly realised that I am desensitized to the insanity of tricycles.

Death on three wheels:

There are tons of motorcycles here.  Note in the picture below, the typical riding uniform…towel around the face, shorts, flip-flops, sunglasses, extremely questionable lid, wearing a sweater on the arms only (for sun protection).  All I can say is wow.

My parents own a multicab.  Made by Suzuki, it boasts a 90 cc, 3 cylinder engine and can seat 10-12 Filipino people in reasonable comfort.  My cousin Mary Ann is a master multicab driver and does all of the driving for the family.  There are many multicabs about, and they make sense.  Families are numbered in the double digits as a matter of course in the Philippines, and they all like to go when there is travelling to be done.

My family's valiant steed:

Note the go-faster decals and rear spoiler.  I have to laugh whenever I imagine my Super-Sized brother trying to fit into this vehicle.

Jeepneys are larger than multicabs, with bigger engines and a lot more chrome.  You’ll have to Google them, I wasn’t able to get any good pics, sorry.  I have to say that the jeepneys I saw buzzing around were pretty much always full, and all the passengers looked to be having a cracking good time.

There are lots of buses as well.  The drivers are very aggressive and will overtake even in the face of oncoming traffic.  They are the biggest vehicles and can also honk the loudest.  They will not stop if you happen to be walking across the road in front of them – you either run to get out of the way or you will be squashed.  The drivers of air-conditioned buses are marginally more careful, but only because they don't want to wreck them and be forced to drive a bus without air.

The road markings are treated as gentle suggestions – you can have as many as four vehicles abreast in two lanes, and overtaking occurs on either side of you.  There is a lot of honking.  Most intersections are uncontrolled, and getting across an intersection can involve some complicated manoeuvring whilst honking. 

I wouldn’t even begin to know how to drive here, but if I had to I think I would opt for a trials bike of some sort – maybe a 125 or a 250 cc Honda.   Something zippy that wouldn’t fall apart too quick, that's small enough to fit in traffic cracks and can't seat more than 3 people ;-)

04 Nov 11 Bogo, Cebu

Today my cousin Mary Ann took me to meet my cousin Lim.  He runs Caswell Sports Apparel, a small tailor’s shop that my mother financed over 30 years ago.  Lim is cool, and I like him very much.  He is 40, has three kids and a wife to look out for.  The shop is doing ok but he has to work pretty hard for what he has – nothing new there!   Of course, he has upper cross syndrome from hunching over sewing machines - his rhomboids are rock solid and his pecs are short.  I showed him how to stretch out a bit and told him to sit up straight.

My awesome cousin Lim with his freshly made shorts:

After visiting Lim we went to the Bogo Public Market and bought some veggies, then went home and made lumpia.  (Sorry Pete, I promise I’ll make some for you when I get home.)  Lumpia, for the uninitiated, are the Filipino version of spring rolls.  They are fantastically delicious and are so fattening it’s just not funny anymore.  I make them, but not very often because they are deep fried and I try really hard not to cook food in this way.  I want us to live.

03 Nov 2011 Bogo, Cebu

Today my mother and I peeled split bamboo, which will be varnished and used to make the interior walls of her nipa hut.  (It has a hammock inside, and is quite cute.)  One peels bamboo with a bolo, or machete.  The trick is to just take the skin off of it and also shave down the joints, which are very knobby.  

Mom and her bamboo.  To the right is my Aunt Neneng, cleaning fish for our lunch (YUMS!!!):

We got quite a bit done before I noticed that the flies that pester us all tirelessly were in fact biting my newly healed dog bite scars and opening them up again.  Needless to say I grew a little resentful.  (Buddha is really making me work at being good.)  I stopped and took a shower, which I really needed, then fired up my laptop and noticed that it had been invaded by a team of very small ants.  I sighed, flipped the laptop over and beat the ants out of it.  I’m not sure I want to get used to living so closely to the insect world, but it seems to be unavoidable in the tropics.  Bugs are everybloodywhere and you can either get used to it or go around screaming like that dippy tart in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom.  Anything goes!

My clothes are getting irritatingly large.  It’s embarrassing, going around with a saggy bum all the time.  I’m not trying to be some sex kitten – I’m so definitely not on the pull but still, it would be nice to look nice.  I don’t want to buy clothes though; it just means more to carry.  I doubt that Pete will want his old shorts back but I can’t bear to throw his things away.  I’m happy that I’ve lost weight – I measured myself the other day and a few more inches have melted off, yay.  I regret not bringing smaller clothes with me when I was originally packing – at the time I thought it was presumptuous to assume future shrinkage, when in fact I should have taken it as read.  (Yes Lobo, it pains me to admit it but you were right xxx.)

02 Nov 2011 Bogo, Cebu, Philippines

Yesterday we visited the cemetery of my family in Kinawahan.  The custom in the Philippines is to visit deceased relatives on the 1^st and 2^nd of November.  There are many family cemetaries here.  They are beautifully kept - cleaned, painted, bedecked with flowers and gifts. Some families stay in the crypt for the two days and even sleep there.  We only stayed the evening and had a barbecue.  The Bandolon family cemetary has a kitchen and bathroom.

On top of the burial chambers (there are four, with one occupied) is a line of skulls.  I asked my mother who they were and she pointed them out.  On the far right is her mother - my grandmother - and next to Grandmother is Grandfather.  My Auntie Neneng came to stand beside us and we held each other while we cried – for them, for us, for me; for I am too many years too late to know my mother’s parents.

My mother took me to the place where she was born and raised.  Her mother’s house is long gone, but her brother still has a house there.  There is a small bay with a rocky beach, and it’s very quiet.  I thought I understood the poverty my mother was raised in, but now I have truly seen it for myself.  To think that she clawed her way up from a nipa hut by the sea, with no electricity, running water or money, to what she is today is amazing.  What a role model!  My mother is an honourable woman and has accomplished incredible things in her career.  Respect, Mom.  You’ve earned it, and more.  

Since coming to S.E. Asia I have begun to see that the trap that I so neatly avoided by being born in the privileged West is more than not having money.   It’s the understanding of self worth, and about wanting to be more than one is and seizing the opportunity to upgrade.  I know that I have an ego and an attitude that has cost me dearly in the past, but I am too stubborn to change my ways.  I am independent, decidedly so, and have always made it a point to carry more than my fair share of the breadwinning and bacon home-bringing.  I have made my own decisions, for good or bad, and somehow lived with them.  I have met demons and gone toe to toe with them – winning more often than losing, I might add.   I always assume I'm going to succeed at whatever I attempt.  I never plan for failures.  Would I have had the strength to do these things had I been born without hope or the opportunities given me by my excellent education?  Would I have still been the same fearless, mule-headed me inside?

In the Philippines education is expensive.  If there is no one to help pay for secondary school then one doesn’t go.  One has to find a job.  In an economy that has been crippled by exodus of the US military there aren’t a lot of good paying jobs here, not that there were massive amounts to choose from before.  There are many women that have no other choice but to become “masseuses” in hotels etc.  These girls are young, uneducated and have very little chance to change that.  Their employers expect them to perform as required, and this job can be taken away for as little as no reason at all.  Their only hopes are to find someone that will support them, or to steal enough to not have to work for a while, at least.  There are a lot of massage parlours in the Philippines.

Of course, there is always field work, or laundry (scrubbing done by hand, crouched over a wash bowl).  A lady can make 120 pesos a day, working from dawn to dusk.  This is "good" money.  In terms of economy, a kilo of rice (the cheap stuff) is 35 pesos.  Mangos are 10-15 pesos each.  Fish can be as cheap as 10 pesos, but can be quite a bit dearer, depending on the size and type.  A kilo of ground pork is 165 pesos.   A litre of petrol is 43 – 44 pesos.  A new Mitsubishi half-ton truck is 1.2 million pesos.  Forty-two pesos equals one US dollar.

I know a couple that work very hard for what they earn.  They have seven kids (!!!) and live in a nipa hut that is leaning to the left in a bad way.  The ground around and under their hut is muddy, as is the trail one has to walk down to get to their house.  The walls are made of bamboo strips and woven coconut leaf mats supplemented by discarded advertising signs (the banner type), and don't quite meet the tin roof.  Their youngest child, a boy, wears nothing but a t-shirt - there are no diapers for him.  When he soils himself he's easy to clean, at least.  There is no running water, no loo, no electricity.   My mother is lending them ten thousand pesos ($250-ish) to build a new house, and she knows damn well she's not going to get the money back for a very long time, if ever.  It's amazing what $250 can achieve, in the right hands.

30 Oct, 2011 Returning to the Motherland

Manila.  4:10 am.  I've lost an hour, but no big thing.  It means I have only a couple of hours to go before my next flight leaves.  So, after going through Immigrations and then through Customs (separate forms - do not make my mistake and only fill out the one they give you on the plane, do the one they hand you as you are leaving the plane as well), three scans of my bags, two perfunctory searches and a 200 peso domestic passenger terminal fee I'm in.

The main terminal area is humming, even at 4am.  Most of the people are bright-eyed and bushy-tailed as well, and are having an excellent time.  Every eating place that is open is serving sweet stuff - doughnuts and cakes abound.

I want to find a place to do some stretching, but I don't think that's going to happen.  I've noted a Catholic prayer room (pray silently please) and a smoking room, but so far nothing for Muslims, which confuses me a little.  There are more Muslims in PI than Christians.  I shall do a little more exploring when my phone is charged up - I need to change money and get a SIM card if possible, and find some toothpaste before I go mad from having gungie teeth.  My toothpaste tube was too big to bring on my carry on.

29 Oct 2011 - Part III

Checked in, got my re-entry permit sorted (only 1200 Baht to get back in to Thailand - bargain!).  I always feel so furtive when dealing with Immigrations people.  In my personal history I've not been in trouble, apart from the odd misunderstanding that was quickly cleared up.  In any event I've always been treated with kindness and courtesy by civil servants so there's no rational explanation for my emotion.  I think it's because I have a natural tendency to want to remain anonymous and well out of the glare of Sauron's fiery red government eyeball.  Calling attention to myself by turning up at the border of a foreign country is always worrisome to me because somebody, somewhere can officially thumbtack me to a particular place at a particular time.  I find this creepy.

Thailand is pretty vigilant, likes to keep tab on its visitors.

I think after fifty more days of this I will go home and settle back into my cozy little nest with my hubby and stay there until the spring thaw.  I'm already ready to go home, I miss him so much :-(

29 Oct 2011 - part II

Observations about BKK:

1)  This airport is busy, but well laid out.  I've been stuck in worse, for longer.
2)  There are rubbish bins all over the place, which makes a refreshing change from the binless, guilty-conscious UK public transportation system.
3)  The vegetarian spring rolls at the Chinese restaurant on the second floor are a steal at 69 Baht and they are FAB!  I kept the chopsticks, they are so reusable.  I wish I had room to keep the plastic container as well.
4)  Emirates stewardesses are consistently the most glamorous of all.  I daren't be seen on the same continent as they - I wouldn't survive the comparison process.
5)  There are a lot of cleaning people here.  Those rubbish bins I was telling you about?  Just try and fill one.  The cleaners constantly empty them using large pairs of tongs.
6)  At night the girders overhead are lit up with blue lights, and the effect is very nice.
7)  My ass hurts from all this sitting.  Come on 11:35!

These guys are standing at the end of each row of check-in desks:

29 Oct 2011

Lisa left yesterday.  She got a ride north with teachers Pong and Yimlack, who have a rubber tree farm 6 hrs from Salaya.  Two of our other classmates, Olja and Malee, are with her.  The plan is to head north to Malee's house then go on to Chiang Mai for a week of leisure/misbehavior.  My parting gift to them was three bottles of icy cold Chang (the big bottles, yes!).  There is a no alcohol policy at the school, but since Pong busted me buying it to start with I reckoned I may as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb. 

He saw me hand over the bottles to much cheering from the girls and he smiled, but said nothing else.  I have the strong feeling that he knows exactly how much we drank and when we drank it this last month (my personal count was an impressive score of three Changs).  Pong plays his cards close to his chest and is definitely no fool.  I have a lot of time for him, he's top shelf.

This morning was our turn to go.  Po drove me, Lynn, Jenny, A, Villi, Agnes and Miki away from the school.  The road was covered with water for the first time, but wasn't deep.

This is the blue store: our primary source of Chang, Pepsi in real glass bottles and Olja's cat food.  It is a two minute walk from the school.

Just outside of Bangkok Po stopped and sorted out taxis for Jenny, A, Villi and Miki.  They are heading into Bangkok to await their flights or in Villi's case to finish his Muay Thai training.  Hopefully I will see Villi one last time before he leaves Thailand.

Villi, the owner of the Muay Thai feet:

Lynn, Agnes and I ended up at Suvarnabhumi (Su-ra-wani-poom) Airport.  My flight leaves at 11:35 tonight.  Sigh.  The original plan was to go to the airport this afternoon, but the water was coming so I got while the getting was good.  It means doing a 12 hour shift at the airport, but is better than missing flights etc.  I can't hook up to the free wi-fi until I have a boarding pass and I can't check in until 8:30pm.  It's 12:40 now.  Meh. This sort-of reminds me of the time my sister was stuck at Fiumicino Airport, eh Victoria?  No matter, I'm moping around anyway, might as people-watch at an airport while I'm at it.


The teachers and staff at Chetawan are used to saying good-bye.  I hate it, personally.  Saying good-bye to Lisa was pretty hard to do.  We have become exceptionally good friends in a very short space of time - she is a sister in my heart and I starting missing her the minute she climbed into the back of Teacher's truck.  

Lisa, waiting for the bus that never came.

I have given Kenny a pair of black fisherman's pants and left him the onus of finding me some Thai people, any Thai people, actually wearing them.  I suspect the whole Thai fisherman pant thing of being in situ solely for farangs.  Personally, I think they suck.  They come in a one size fits all format, which is a disaster for the more generously endowed individual.  However, Kenny needs meat, so they fit him ok and don't look half bad.


I hope to see Kenny and Emmy when they return from Oz.  Belgium isn't so far that we can't go there or have them come to us.  They've promised to show us around Belgium and not make us go to Bruges unless we insist.  In return I have promised no English beer.


Things that make me laugh when I think of them:
"Poopie!"
"Of course you'd sleep with me.  I'm awesome!"
"I want elephant."
"NaaaaAAAaaaaah"
Accidental (and non-accidental) breast brushing
"Miaow!"
Quadriceps femoris
"Shut UP and go to sleep!"
Lisa, screaming and doing one-legged running in place while laying on her side on a treatment couch getting deep tissue work done on the other leg.
"If you don't understand please understand"

Going to Cebu!

Right, the flights are booked and I am away!

The class ended early because of the flooding, and everyone is a little concerned about getting where they want to go.  Salaya is under water but we are still dry out here. 

Everyone but me and one other girl took all of their exams.  I have to do my one hour massage yet and will do this at 9 am tomorrow.  The school van leaves in the afternoon, and I'll be on the 11:35 pm flight to Manila.  Everyone got their certificates and are all very happy.  I've seen mine, but haven't earned it just yet!

Well I'm off to practice, my last exam is at 9 am tomoz...

Oct 28, 2011 - Part II

There are no buses.  There are no taxis.  We wasted a fair few hours waiting for any mode of public transport to make an appearance, but no such luck.  The school van did not go on its daily run to Mahidol University.  Salaya hospital is flooded.  There's no answer at Nakhon Chaisi hospital.  Phutthamonthon Hospital phone number isn't valid.  Mahidol University Clinic is closed until Nov 1.  Hmmm.

One of the online news channels said that the Thai gov't has made Oct 27-31 national holidays.  This will give people a chance to move their families or protect their properties as best as they can.  I don't know if these are paid holidays, I sure hope so.  The airport is full of Bangkok people heading north, where the water has already been.  Some of my classmates are planning a trip to Chiang Mai, and I hope they can make it!

I called the US Embassy and had a conversation about hospitals.  The BNH (Bangkok International Hospital) is still accepting non-life threatened outpatients.  However, getting into Bangkok might be a bit tricksy - the trains are running on a reduced schedule as well.

Chetawan has changed the exam schedule in light of the flooding.  We now have to take our one-hour exam tomorrow and our 90 min relaxing massage w/herbal compression exam on Saturday.  We also take our written exam Saturday afternoon.  Tonight is going to be a no-sleeper cram session.  I haven't done one of these since college, and am not looking forward to it very much.  I have lots of tea and coffee.

The school has agreed to send its van to the airport on Saturday afternoon and again on Sunday.  I see this as a possible means of getting my next vaccination - I can take the Skytrain into Bangkok and make my way to the BNH, and then back to the school.  We'll see how it all plays out, I might just get on a train and head back to Hua Hin. I don't know what the sea will be like once all that water flows through Bangkok though :-(

I am waiting to hear from my mother, or from the people in the family I have contacted in hopes of getting her phone number in Cebu.  If I can contact her I will book flights and leave Sat or Sun, and get my rabies jab there.  I'm trying to keep my options open - outwardly I'm a little ragged around the edges but staying as close to calm as possible for little old Type A me, and internally my brain is spinning like a gyro, trying to figure out a way out of this little predicament.

The dog bite marks are healing up, and the antibiotics have stopped the budding infection in its tracks.  I just might live through this one.  I know I have a few days' grace with this rabies vaccination thing, but want to keep on track if at all possible. 

I best go do some more cramming before the dawn breaks.  Nothing like a little stress at my age to keep the pipes clear, eh?

Oct 28, 2011

We've just been told that the water is coming.  It will be here tomorrow, the next day at the latest.  The school is surrounded by a solid wall.  The only way for water to come in is from the driveway at the front, and there is a big pile of sandbags sitting there at the ready.  The school admin people have assured us that everything will be fine, there's enough food, water etc here to cover the emergency.  We are on higher ground anyway, and there are machines in place to pump the water out.  I'm not too worried, it's not like there's a flash flood coming down from the Rockies or something.  Whatever happens, we'll cope.  If it gets too-too we'll peace out.  The important thing is to not worry.  Those of you that know me know that I won't put up with too much of this shit before I bail - my instinct for self preservation is well developed and working overtime.

I have to go into Salaya.  I have no choice, it's the day for my third rabies vaccination.  I'll take my camera and try to get some good pics of the situation on the ground.  We'll be riding the blue bus in and out of town, it's a big old thing and cuts through the water just fine.

Stay cool, I'll update you as soon as I know more.

Thai Feet

Thai feet crack me up!  They have the cutest little round toes ever.

My feet, Thai feet.

 Muay Thai feet.

The Water is Coming

I went into Salaya with Lisa, Kenny and Emmy to get my next rabies vaccination.  We had planned on going to the market afterwards, but there was no market.  We started walking through town and saw that everyone was busy building cinderblock walls in front of their shop doors and there were lots of trucks roaring past, filled with sand bags.

Brian sent me a text today saying he and Kai had to leave their house because of the water. 

Lisa says she watched the news and it showed the water heading for the centre of Bangkok.  Many people are already wading in Bangkok, and I wonder where they will end up.  The flooding is supposed to arrive very soon and will last approximately 5 days.

Chetawan School is a good metre or so higher than the rest of the surrounding area, so we will be amongst the last to flood.  I wonder if any of the local people will come here for refuge.  I am pretty sure they won't be turned away if they do.  There are already a lot more vehicles parked here than usual, and I think that some of the staff have moved here for the time being.  I know for a fact at least one of our teachers is staying in the room across from mine.

The news mentioned that Suvarnabhumi Airport might flood as well.  I don't know any more than this, but I was under the impression that they had that under control.  Perhaps not.

I think we might need a little good luck here.  Send us some, won't you?

Monkeys, Dogs, and What Happened Next

21 Oct 11:  As you know from the previous entry, Lisa went from an e-low to e-high in 1.7 seconds.  I was also happy and relieved, because up until then we had been having a cracking good time and a sad Lisa isn't nearly as much fun as a happy one.  Plus, it's always better to find that you actually haven't lost all your holiday cash when you thought you might have. Since she wanted to go to Monkey Mountain (she saw it on the Travel Channel back home, thought it would be cool to see it for real) I said get your kit, let's go to the mountain.

One green bus ride later, and we were there.  Unfortunately, we hadn't dressed properly to visit the temple so we contented ourselves with walking around and staring at the monkeys that were staring at us.  There are lots of monkeys on Monkey Mountain.  We bought some souveniers, as one does.

Monkey Mountain, view from the beach:

Wat Khao Takiab up close:

We walked down the mountain and back to the Green Bus parking area to buzz off to find something to eat.  The sun was just about down and we hadn't had any lunch so supper was the next order of business.  We took the Green Bus to a pub, which neither of us caught the name of but it was really good food and had tons of Belgian Beer.  After eating I suggested we walk back to the hotel; it wasn't far, and we could stop on the way and get a couple of beers.

After picking up a couple of bottles of Chang we headed out.  Along the way was a Thai eatery (no walls, a few rickety tables and plastic chairs) that had a tray of ice out front containing crabs.  There were three large, black horseshoe crabs and I slowed down to take a look, just for a second.  I then carried on walking and had taken a couple of strides when I felt a huge pain around my right leg.  I looked down and saw that a dog had decided for whatever reason to have a go.  There was then a massive hoo-hah, complete with me taking a swing at this bloody dog with my bag (remember, there's two bottles of beer in that bag and it would have hurt the little bastard if I hit him) while the dog is dancing around, barking his head off.  Lisa stopped me and said let's go to the hospital, which was conveniently located across the street.  I was bleeding pretty good, madder than a wet hen, and just about ready to break one of the bottles and stick the sharp end in that damn dog.

The visit to the hospital didn't help my temper much.  Everyone in the hospital was kind and gentle, while I was still fuming.  I don't have time for dogs that bite.  Buddha bless the doctor and nurses at Bangkok Hospital in Hua Hin for putting up with me!!!

They cleaned my wound and gave me a rabies vaccination - one of five, meh.  They wanted to treat me further, and wouldn't let me leave until they had some sort of confirmation of insurance or payment in cash.  This is when I discovered, four hours later, that the coverage I thought I had through Nationwide Building Society's traveller's insurance program didn't exist, and there was no record of me ever even calling to enquire about it - even though I had made several phone calls to them to confirm I had cover before I left the UK.  A good piece of advice:  ALWAYS get the certificate of cover and keep it with your passport.  Do not believe some goober on the phone assuring you that everything is hunky dory, which is what I did.  Nationwide, that was your second strike.  You have one balls-up left with me, before you get dumped forever.  Just sayin.

Finally, I paid for the treatment, gathered up Lisa and left.  I'd had enough, it was 1:00 am and we had planned on an early night and a really early wake-up time to catch the 4:28 northbound train.  As it was, Lisa got a few minutes sleep while I stayed up.  I couldn't trust myself to sleep for such a short amount of time and we had to be back to Chetawan for 9 am.  She had her prayer exam to do, and it wouldn't have been a good thing to miss it. 

We were up by 3:30 am, and checked out by 4 am.  When we got to the train station, we found plenty of people hanging around but no one at the ticket booth.  We waited until 4:28, then waited some more when the train didn't appear.  The next one was at 4:56.  At 4:55 the ticket guy turned up at the booth and sold me two tickets for the express train (three hour journey instead of the usual 4-5 hour one).  We piled on and Lisa promptly fell back to sleep.  I stayed awake, to keep an eye on things and get us off the train at the right stop.  Falling asleep and eventually waking up in Bangkok would have been horrific; the absolute End.

We were in Nakhon Pathon by 7:40 am.  We got off the train and found ourselves in the early morning market.  No taxis.  We wandered out to the main street.  No taxis.  No one spoke any English.  Uh oh.  We found a kind lady that eventually understood that we wanted to go towards Salaya and she flagged down a bus that was headed that way.  We got on, and I spent the next 20 minutes trying to explain that I wanted to get off at Chetawan School, which is on the Salaya-Nakhonchaisi Road.  The bus we were on was on the PinKlao-Nakhonchaisi Road, which will take you to Bangkok if you aren't careful.  The PinKlao-Nakhonchaisi Road runs parallel to Salaya-Nakhonchaisi Road, and is the Thai equivalent of a motorway or freeway.

Fortunately, there was a man on this bus, a physics teacher from Mahidol University in Salaya, that understood a little English.  He knew Chetawan School, and knew how to get there.  Our bus turned off at Nakhon Chaisi and he asked us to come with him to catch the correct bus.  We did this, and arrived at last to Chetawan School at 8:20 am.  Lisa wasn't too bothered about it all, but I had refused to quit, refused to give up and cause her to miss her exam. 

Don't ask me how I did it, but I stayed in class all that day.  At 4 pm I stumbled back to my room and fell asleep like a dead thing.  I had been running on my reserve superhuman ornery powers for most of the day and ran the batteries flat.

Note to self:  before coming back to Thailand learn something of the language.